The original purpose of pleats was to allow more fabric for when a man sat down, according to Alan Flusser, author of menswear guidebook "Dressing The Man" and a custom tailor whose credits include Michael Douglas' wardrobe in the original "Wall Street" movie.

WSJ: The Pleats Plea: Wear These

The best thing is to have a tailor custom make shirts, suits and pants for you.

FORBES: How To Dress Like An Italian Man