Returning to Connaught Place, seek out a child-friendly street snack on the inner circle, where ice cream vendors and a nameless stall dishing up particularly tasty sweetcorn ply their wares.

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They tuck with aplomb into a street-food supper of kushari (a local snack-food staple of pasta, lentils, tomato sauce and fried onions), bought in steaming ladlefuls from a little stall in the capital's old city.

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Today, the city is awash with eclectic eating venues, ranging from thriving market stalls selling fresh seafood to informal street stands serving the typically Balkan snack burek (a meat or cheese filled pastry) to relaxed cafes offering fresh salads grown in gardens just metres from the old town cobblestones.

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