"He was surrounded by chandeliers and walls of abalone and mother of pearl, " Mr. Wilkinson recalled.
The collapse of abalone stocks prompted a 1997 ban on commercial harvesting off California's coast.
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The only humans dipping in are hikers, abalone hunters and intrepid surfers.
Closer to home, volunteer scuba enthusiasts in Sydney work alongside university scientists to replant crayweed, a sea plant that serves as habitat for abalone, lobsters and other fish.
The coastline supports colonies of fish and seals, and divers who hunt for scallops and abalone can spend up to 10 hours a day in the water.
Belcher now runs evolution on fast-forward but under different conditions, trying to make new materials as amazing as an abalone shell that are more useful for humans.
At a spring festival gathering in February, the Hong Kong Pui Ching Alumni Association ordered a 10-course meal but opted to replace the shark's fin soup with a chicken, fish belly and abalone soup.
Shanghai Terrace covers all the high-end bases, from Peking Duck to abalone, but also offers a surprising depth of traditional and unusual noodle dishes, and offers outdoor dining in a private garden, a rarity in Chicago that makes it very popular.
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And Neil Perry's Rockpool is a perennial favorite for tasting menus that rival Tetsuya's in the creative use of local ingredients such as a salad of green lip abalone, mussel, clam, tea-smoked oysters and noodles with truffle oil and mushroom soy dressing.
Tin Lung Heen, its Cantonese restaurant, which recently gained its second Michelin star under chef de cuisine Paul Lau, churns out 700-1, 400 pieces of dim sum a day, ranging from simple vegetarian mushroom to a gourmet house specialty of roast goose with abalone.
One of the best examples is Lung King Heen, the Michelin-starred restaurant at the Four Seasons Hotel Hong Kong, where chef Chan Yan Tak has added duck liver and black truffles to pork dumplings, and invented new dim sums, like abalone baked in a cup of flaky puff pastry.
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