The early 20th-century anti-art movement of Marcel Duchamp and Man-Ray rejected conventional forms, declared that art is dead and took a deliberately absurdist approach.

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Unlike more ambitious collectors such as Baron Thyssen-Bornemisza, whose broad range of master-paintings is housed at the imposing Villahermosa Palace in Madrid, Mr Beyeler does not claim to have mounted an exhaustive panorama that takes in every movement in 20th-century art.

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He was the lion of the international movement in social-realist public art, which peaked in the nineteen-thirties.

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The main space shows international names such as Conceptual Art movement founder Sol LeWitt, while up-and-comers such as South African video artist Candice Breitz are featured in the basement.

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"In Paris we happen to have the most important museums covering almost all of art history--from its earliest origins through the Modernist movement, " Pinault says grandly.

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But while the city that embraced the rule-breaking Bauhaus movement may have found a new role as the unofficial art capital of Europe, it's nothing like Paris or New York: No one teeters around its cobblestone streets in high heels, no one asks what anyone else does for a living or how much they make doing it.

WSJ: Berlin, An Insider's Guide