The decorative rice cakes at Jilsiru (Insadong St) are works of art, and turn down the nearby alley to sip quince tea in Yetchatjip, a hobbit-sized teashop echoing with water features, songbirds and gayageum (zither) music.
When the resort opened back in 1997 there was muttering from rock art enthusiasts, who had previously enjoyed free run of the neglected farmland here that once grew grapefruit, oranges and rooibos tea.