Another small design glitch: Some sinks are fronted by an excessively broad ledge, making shorter guests wish the bathroom furniture included a step stool.

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They've since renovated the chateau (which had been used for government conferences), furnishing each bathroom with Italian marble, covering chairs and beds in rich brocade fabrics and sourcing 17th-century furniture for a truly palatial effect.

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Bisazza, the Italian firm famous for its mosaics, also broke with conventional wisdom when it launched the minimal, really-doesn't-say-bathroom-at-all "Nendo Collection, " designed by the Japanese architect Oki Sato, at the Milan Furniture Fair last week.

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