The brooding artist presents himself in a pink-and-black striped robe, holding a horn high, as if to play it.

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Ladies have to don the traditional abaya - the loose black robe that is worn by women in the Gulf - and cover their hair.

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Sipping lemon-ginger tea on the cushions of our house's rooftop pavilion, I watch the first light spangle the leaves of the poplars along the village's irrigation stream, see lambs herded into a small willow-walled corral, a woman in a black robe and orange head scarf testing her lower back after filling her buckets.

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