There are also a handful of small plates like the stand-out braised pork belly with cider.
One does wonder whether it is proper to have the veal tartare before or after the braised pork belly.
Caines takes Devon's regional ingredients several steps further, adding his own world-food nuances: ravioli of Brixham crab with a ginger-and-shellfish sauce, slow-poached Cornish sea bass with Thai puree, stir-fried shiitake mushrooms and a lemongrass foam, slow-roasted Hatherleigh venison with braised pork belly.
These include The Principal, which serves creative, modern European dishes under the watchful eye of a chef who hails from the Canary Islands, steak haven Strip House, and Zhejiang Heen, which delivers lauded homestyle renditions of signature dishes such as braised pork belly and squid from Zhejiang, a coastal Chinese province south of Shanghai known for its tender, fresh seafood.
In general, the foods were gourmet takes on regional specialties: the Dallas Cowboys did Quail Breast Wrapped in Niman Ranch Bacon, the Denver Broncos served Szechuan Style Colorado Bison Short Ribs, the Green Bay Packers Wisconsin Duck Borscht with Duck Brats and Caraway Cream, The Kansas City Chiefs honored their legendary hometown BBQ heritage with Cider Braised Pork Shoulder with Caramelized Onions, and so on.
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Down another staircase, into another windowless room, where dishes arrived: pork braised in brown sauce, bok choy, egg-drop soup, spicy chicken.
Currently, one of Hong Kong's most popular dishes is pai guat, pork ribs braised in Cointreau and oranges, a case study in fusion.
The current iteration places pork shoulder braised in white wine and veal stock on top of a polenta patty, then crowns it with a poached egg and garnishes it with onions, turnips, English peas, shallots and pea shoots.
It pairs well with braised meats, game and, of course, cured and smoked pork.
WSJ: The Bacony Goodness of C?te-R?tie | On Wine by Jay McInerney
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