At the center was a wheel-shaped ballotine of chicken, inlaid with chicken liver, foie gras and Louisiana crayfish.

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Fort Defiance, a few blocks north, serves up fresh pasta, small plates like chicken liver pate with bacon-onion jam, and historically-inspired cocktails like the Colonial Cooler, a twist on the Pimm's Cup that was first mixed in British North Borneo in the 1920s.

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Some of the stuff was brilliant (crispy chicken skins with liver-infused yogurt dipping sauce, corn soup with bits of pork liver in crispy Iberico ham).

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Well-dressed families converse and enjoy staples such as tomato soup, crab cakes, Caesar salad, chicken salad, "one great burger" and calves' liver with bacon.

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