WATER-COOKED FISH is a Sichuan preparation of poached white fish and wilted cabbage in a sweet-sour broth slicked with chili oil.

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It was a sultry September, and a snack of dan dan noodles seasoned with salty preserved vegetables, perky Sichuan peppercorns and chili oil kept me alert in the intense humidity.

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There are plenty of different ingredients you can put in your bowl to personalize your creation: Soy sauce, sesame oil or paste, chili, garlic, coriander, vinegar and Chinese barbecue sauce (see inset, above) are some choices.

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Brush lightly with oil and sprinkle with chopped onions, herbs, salt, pepper and chili flakes according to your own taste.

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