Fat glossy oysters sit on top, ready to be seasoned with sriracha (bottled chilli sauce) and lashings of white pepper.

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Yet in the Zona Rosa clubs, even the neatly dressed are clutching messy, massive Styrofoam cups that drip red chilli sauce from the rim.

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Aboard the boat was a cloth-covered picnic table set with handmade clay dishes and mugs, holding corn chips and homemade guacamole, a salad prepared with freshly picked chinampa produce, such as white onion and tomatoes, and served with two types of ranchero cheese, as well as plates of Oaxaca-style tamales filled with mushroom and guajillo chilli sauce.

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There is more food on the table, chilli pepper sauce and yellow buns.

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He has been serving home-cooked dishes to locals and visitors ever since, like his signature chilli chocolate steak, a chunk of tender beef covered in a spicy, cocoa-flavoured sauce.

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