The suit's W-collar seems to have developed from turning down the stand-up collar of a frock coat, which in turn derived from army and naval wear.

ECONOMIST: Men's clothing

One stand-out was a black tailored floor-length coat with a pillow collar.

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Another collar that goes well with a sport coat sans tie is the semi- or medium-spread collar as both "stand up on their own without a tie, " and don't flare out.

WSJ: Guide to Men's Shirt Collars: Which Styles Go With Which Occasions and Flatter the Face