Imaginary Michael took his as a salad of corn and tomato.

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Especially noteworthy: the Maryland crab cakes with roasted corn salsa and the lobster Cobb salad.

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Sometimes, you're just in the mood for a plateful of General Tsao's chicken, egg salad, wings, canned corn and artichoke hearts with a side of pork spareribs.

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Aboard the boat was a cloth-covered picnic table set with handmade clay dishes and mugs, holding corn chips and homemade guacamole, a salad prepared with freshly picked chinampa produce, such as white onion and tomatoes, and served with two types of ranchero cheese, as well as plates of Oaxaca-style tamales filled with mushroom and guajillo chilli sauce.

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Since the salad's success comes down to the corn, Mr. Habiger said it is essential to choose large, heavy and unblemished ears.

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We'd flank the dish with sides of corn on the cob, a garlic-studded green such as escarole, a balsamic-slicked watercress salad and even some barbecued meat for the non-crab lovers of the family.

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