In the suddenly opened case I saw six rows of identical dark-brown glass bottles, each a bit smaller than a bottle of cough medicine.

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Celltech's sales come mainly from aging products--the biggest is a cough medicine--that it bought to allow it to keep running without infusions of venture capital.

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Plastic bottle from the bar well splashed into a plastic shot glass that resembled the little cup the comes with a bottle of cough medicine.

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The good stuff--dryish, refined, compulsively drinkable--has nothing to do with cold duck or cough-medicine-y, five bucks a pop, small "c" "champagne": Different grapes, different process, a whole different mind-set.

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Golden says he tried to explain why the side effects weren't as bad as the patient thought, and why the medicine would take care of his cough.

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