Church authorities whitewashed most of the interior in the mid-16th century, as part of the Counter-Reformation's effort to promote a more austere and theologically rigorous faith.
As they move among the remnants of Valladolid's former royal splendor, tourists can consider how Spain might have developed had the Counter-Reformation not been so successful in suppressing the nascent Protestant heresy--or what might have happened had there been more men like Salcedo.
The counter-reformation is led by those smaller states, such as Austria, Ireland and the Netherlands, whose budgets are in order and who may feel that the leniency they are expected to show to the big states would not be shown to them, were they in the dock.