You can get it by mail order, but a recent trip to various expat Brit outlets in New York yielded what was to me more like a somewhat velvety cream cheese spread than the soupier, clottier Double Devonshire clotted cream of memory.

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To assemble your tart, spread the mustard cream over the center of the shell and sprinkle half the cheese on top.

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The first book featured family standards like Zippy Olive Beef Spread, made by combining whatever wine is on hand, instant minced onions, cream cheese, mayonnaise, chopped cocktail olives and beef cut up with kitchen shears.

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