Yet, now that Mr Menem and his Peronists have been voted out of office and replaced by the more sober Fernando de la Rua, it feels like the end of an era.

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Howard Drake, co-owner of Casa de Cadillac, a big, gleaming dealership in Sherman Oaks, California, feels hip again after years dodging insults from buyers of European and Japanese brands.

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Except for the commercially-named cocktails (the margarita-esque Miss Moneypenny martini was tempting ), everything about the small but elegantly appointed bar just off the lobby of Duke's hotel (on a cul-de-sac off St James's Place, www.dukeshotel.com) feels vintage.

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