Bakery (decadent donuts) and a nacho-like microwavable treat, flecked with dried meat and cheese.

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Load salads with nuts, cheese, dried fruit and olive oil based dressing.

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The artichoke appetizer had gone awry and came second, but it was worth the wait--boiled to semi-baby-food consistency and with the season's first fava beans. (They stole the show.) I ended with a whole grilled fish and, at the urging of two guys at the next table, Paradiso's prize dessert, sponge cake with dried fruit and sweetened ricotta cheese.

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As I watched the chef stirring tomato sauce and heard her saying "dried pasta, " "extra-virgin olive oil, " "Parmigiano cheese" and "salt-dried capers, " I began to envision a brighter future for my kitchen.

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