Still more of them gathered round in an audience, stuck to the walls, crowding the shelves, perched on the lintel, all of them muttering opinions as the preparations went on they would have baked, not seared, that fish, and salted the cabbage but not the asparagus, and chosen caramel over fudge for the cake.

NEWYORKER: A Tiny Feast

The artichoke appetizer had gone awry and came second, but it was worth the wait--boiled to semi-baby-food consistency and with the season's first fava beans. (They stole the show.) I ended with a whole grilled fish and, at the urging of two guys at the next table, Paradiso's prize dessert, sponge cake with dried fruit and sweetened ricotta cheese.

FORBES: Editor's Note