During my visit in 2010, I went to the countryside south of Rome for a traditional Easter lunch with Italian family friends.

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This was all brought home to me when I went to the small New South Wales town of Gulargambone.

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Every day, I went to the tearoom two doors to the south, with its carp pond in the garden and its shelves of trophies commemorating giant fish within.

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"I thought it went into the water but when I went to look I saw it was just left of the stream and I had a shot, " said the South African.

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Mr. Gorman would be pleased to know that Pinotage represented but a small percentage of the South African wines at the two where I went shopping recently.

WSJ: Does Much-Unloved Pinotage Deserve Another Look? | On Wine by Lettie Teague