Labour took the Kashmiri vote for granted in the past, and the Kashmiris know it.
On the other hand, when orthodox Islamic practices are demanded by fundamentalist militants, Kashmiris reject them.
He pointed out ancient photos of Kashmiris in formal dress and showed us black-and-white images printed on silver gelatine paper.
Kashmiris on either side of the divide will be able to embrace each other in only three hours.
India is keen to talk to disgruntled Kashmiris, and recognises it cannot get far without the co-operation of Pakistan.
Mr Khan claims that in some places, 70% of young Kashmiris are unemployed.
We stepped into Asia Crafts next door, where silver-tongued Kashmiris unrolled carpets that seemed to change colour every time they were turned upside-down.
On Sept. 7, Kashmiris participated in the first phase of a four-stage election aimed at restoring a popular 87-seat assembly.
Mr Singh is keen to show both Kashmiris and Pakistan that he is sincere in seeking a settlement of the dispute.
ECONOMIST: What peace process? Kashmiris are entitled to ask
Apart from barter by Kashmiris and the odd trainload of cargo at Wagah, goods went via third-country ports, notably Dubai and Colombo.
ECONOMIST: India and Pakistan: Clever steps at the border | The
General Musharraf says that Kashmiris should now be allowed to cross it.
Groups with deeper roots in Kashmir, caught between their obligations to ordinary Kashmiris and their dependence on and fear of Pakistan, were more cautious.
India hoped that Mr Lone would re-enter Kashmir's electoral politics, or at least help negotiate a settlement that would reconcile Kashmiris to remaining Indians.
ECONOMIST: The killing of Abdul Gani Lone removes a force for peace
Both Clinton and Secretary of State Madeleine Albright have cautioned India not to attempt a "military solution" to the crisis in the Kashmir Valley and to open dialogue with the bitterly alienated Kashmiris.
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