Mr. Smith's kelp got its start in a University of Connecticut lab in Stamford.
In Key West, bikes bunch up around the bars like kelp at low tide.
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He plans to harvest about two tons of sugar kelp by the end of the winter season.
The silent boats allow kayakers to paddle into kelp beds to watch humpback whales feed and seals frolic.
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The kelp seeds, grown on a string back at the university lab, are wrapped around the 150-foot lines.
The iodine tang of kelp hung in the air always, and put me in mind of embalming fluid.
Kelp stock also enhances the earthy sweetness of my creamy turnip soup garnished with zesty mustard and shaved fennel.
While Mr. Smith awaits a state permit to sell the kelp, he is giving away samples to chefs and others.
The 11 sq km (1100 hectares) area of seabed, includes kelp forests, rocky reef habitat and limestone ledges encrusted in marine life.
He admits it is far from certain whether he will find enough chefs and regular consumers who want a fresh, local option for kelp.
Sugar kelp is best harvested after one month to three months, when it has reached one to three feet in length, Mr. Smith said.
To make the basic Japanese kelp stock one of the easiest ways to bring it to your cooking simply soak the kombu leaf in water overnight.
In my childhood home, once the tofu had been eaten, it was the custom to cut up the succulent kelp and eat it, too.
As I rolled off the boat into heaving waters caused by constant huge Atlantic swells, I entered a great swaying underwater forest of kelp.
Mayur Subbarao of Bittermens Spirits, a liquor company in New Orleans, also has been experimenting with Mr. Smith's kelp by infusing various boozy concoctions with it.
First make the Japanese soup stock, or dashi: In a 4-quart saucepan, combine 3 quarts of water, the kelp, and bonito flakes and place over medium-low heat.
The kelp cover returned, but the bottom feeders continued to be overfished (Maine's cod catch plummeted by 70% during the decade), so the lobster population shot up.
Mr. Smith decided to diversify his commercial-fishing business by growing kelp in the winter when he isn't as busy harvesting shellfish and to reduce his crops' exposure to violent weather.
"Come back in August and I'll take you to a kelp bed in Monterey, "he insists, referring to a "kelp-cam" project he has going with the Monterey Bay Aquarium in California.
The water was gin clear and the huge kelp fronds were in a mad rhythm of bending, then standing straight up, swinging and heaving to the forces of the sea.
Sea urchins graze the kelp that lobsters use as cover, so the initial drop in bottom-feeders did not benefit lobsters since although they had fewer predators, they were more exposed.
After just an hour the beach was a winter beach, cold and gray and the dead kelp like the hair of the drowned, and it stayed that way despite all attempts.
Charles Yarish, a professor at the university who has studied seaweed cultivation for more than two decades, grows sugar-kelp seeds there for a project he runs with Purchase College in New York.
I've lived in New York for 14 years now, and during that time I've developed dozens of recipes for American-style fare that gets a savory boost from the kelp stock I grew up with.
And in my chorizo-and-shrimp rice, a dish inspired by my travels in Spain, kelp stock magnifies the umami impact of the sausage and shellfish and the briny character of the clam juice that the rice simmers in.
Long used in soups, braised dishes, dressings and sauces in Japan, umami-rich kelp stock has recently begun to play a key role in the kitchens of Western chefs seeking cleaner, leaner preparations that are nevertheless full of flavor.
Keep an eye out for the small furry creatures tucked into the kelp from any coastal hiking trail, such as in Point Lobos State Natural Reserve in Carmel or Wilder Ranch State Park in Santa Cruz.
As I grew older, I learned that infusing this kelp in water makes an elemental stock with a round, rich taste, a mild sweetness and a touch of saltiness from the sea the basis for countless Japanese dishes, and the source of their profound depth of flavor.
On a typical day a ToorCamper can attend a talk on breaking into Android devices or disassembling microprocessors with acid and silicate solution to divine the secret cryptographic keys Microsoft stores there, learn to build a Geiger counter and scuba dive in a kelp forest in search of the North Pacific giant octopus.
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