Alas, the restaurant was out of kimchi that day, but I stuck with my order.
There's a kimchi-making workshop, and who wouldn't be better boyfriend material for knowing how to pickle cabbage?
Korean and Chinese restaurants have been given trouble about traditional practices with kimchi and Peking ducks, respectively.
So Hwang, 74, spent a month in the Philippines, where a Korean cook prepared kimchi daily for him.
Ms. Cho said she submitted to a lab 90 samples of different types of kimchi from restaurants across the city.
The food is probably Westernized but there was plenty of kimchi bite for my taste at Hanok, the stand I visited.
Those involved in the Korean restaurant industry say kimchi, and fermented foods like it, shouldn't be considered potentially hazardous at all.
The results, which will be submitted to the health department, show kimchi always has an acidity level of below 4.6, she said.
Kimchi is a vegetable pickle from South Korea and chow-chow is a vegetable pickle popular in Nova Scotia and the southern United States.
Mr. Marcus said a restaurant operator can demonstrate that the pH level of kimchi is below 4.6 as an alternative to following the time and temperature rules.
Hanjeongsik is a banquet of fish, meat, lettuce wraps, tofu soup and steamed egg, served with side dishes of kimchi (spicy pickled cabbage), acorn jelly, dried anchovies and boiled peanuts.
In Ms. Park's case, the kimchi wasn't labeled, so inspectors had no way of knowing what time it was taken out of cold storage, according to a spokeswoman for the department.
By fining restaurants for the way kimchi and other fermented foods are prepared, the Health Department is essentially forcing us to dissolve an ancient practice that is at the core of Korean cuisine.
When my kimchi-less Korean taco arrived, I bit into it and was immediately met by flavourful pork, spicy but earthy Korean barbecue sauce that balanced out the smokiness from the grill, and soft, silky avocado.
The deal fell through, but after spending enough time there on reconnaissance trips, he decided to make an homage to his near-business venture and marry kimchi, grilled pork or beef short rib, and corn tortillas.
Kimchi fans will rejoice in the Seoul Restaurant, in Nairamdal Children's Park, while sashimi savorers should head to the Sanshiro Japanese restaurant on Seoul Street, a few blocks west of the state circus building.
According to Elliott Marcus, an associate health commissioner, Korean restaurants don't get penalized when kimchi is being made (the fermentation process often requires leaving vegetables, most commonly cabbage, out at room temperature for days).
"The problem is kimchi is not supposed to be hazardous food because the kimchi has acidity below 4.6, " said Chongwon K. Cho, a sanitation consultant for restaurants who earlier worked for the health department.
So when South Korea's food-safety watchdog announced last month that parasite eggs had been found in kimchi imported from China, the resulting public revulsion was tinged with indignation at the insult to a national icon.
The crispy pork belly, a staple of Korean cuisine called samgyeopsal, is intensely rich, and silky chocolate mousse is served up in tiny traditional kimchi pots made from chocolate, which are decorated with cake crumbs and edible flowers.
There's mushroom wine and chestnut porridge, according to summit officials, as well as kimchi, which is a spicy Korean vegetable dish that's pretty full of garlic, and the leaders are all going to be gathering for a photo, as well.
It's only after it's made that kimchi like other cold foods that are considered "potentially hazardous" must be handled under department rules that allow cold foods to be out up to six hours, so long as the time and temperature is noted and the food doesn't exceed 70 degrees.
Surprisingly, chocolate is also a good delivery system, so chocolate products created specifically to deliver probiotics (instead of just throwing them in for marketing purposes) are a tasty and effective option, as long as they aren't loaded with too much sugar and fat. (Attune is a California company specializing in chocolate probiotic treats.) Fermented foods such as cheese, sauerkraut and kimchi are also a good source of probiotics.
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