They were members of the Satmar Hasidic sect, whose men dress in dark coats and hats, wear long beards like their Eastern European ancestors and have limited dealings with the outside world.

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However Salafists - the ultraconservative fundamentalist Muslims - like to let their beards grow long and wild , often leaving their upper lip clean-shaven as a nod to how the Prophet Mohammed wore his own beard 1, 400 years ago.

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Goats file through the scrub, an irregular column, with goatee beards, horns like the handles of mountain bikes and mad, golden, dreamy eyes, led by a ram with scimitar horns.

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Like those brothers named Halls who had beards and made cough drops.

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Only days later, a different group of fighters arrived, wearing beards and tunics that looked like the kurtas common in Pakistan and Afghanistan.

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There are fewer beards and turbans, and loud music plays from stalls selling a collection of previously forbidden goods like television sets or pictures of pretty Indian movie stars.

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