Former millinery favourite of the Princess of Wales, John Boyd is responsible for fashioning a new headpiece for Franklin D.
For these women, millinery has become a second career, born out of a shared epiphany: "I want to make hats!"
They each took classes, apprenticed under other hat makers or worked off of a basic sewing knowledge and taught themselves millinery.
Inspirations for the hats come from their customers, but Conti is especially influenced by the glamour of 1930s and 1940s millinery.
In 1973, he bought Claire's Boutiques, a handful of Midwestern millinery outlets.
Perhaps it is an escape from her daily life, or even daily persona, that lies behind the feminine mystery of Derby millinery.
Women attending the race keep custom clothiers in business, with eye catching clothing and millinery extravagance, a sea of silk, chiffon, sateen, and lace.
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Ms. Kiely started out in millinery in 1992, but stopped making her simple hat designs after her father pointed out that nobody seemed to be wearing hats anymore.
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Meanwhile, the Refinery Hotel, located in a former hat factory in the Garment District, has suffused its design with nods both to the millinery and the building's Neo-Gothic exterior.
Without the benefit of a large brand name behind them, small private labels like ILF and Ellen Christine Millinery must work twice as hard to be seen and worn.
It means e-mailing photographs and mailing swatches of outfits to match the hats, hours of chatting on the phone and even using software to "try on" a hat (a feature Siverson's website offers) or a virtual "sitting room" with everything from a "millinery mugshot" to photos of the hat in progress on Conti's site.
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