When cooking for guests, Lee doesn't represent any particular Chinese region, shuns the use of monosodium glutamate and keeps deep fried dishes to a minimum.

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In early 2001 several executives of Ajinomoto, a Japanese company that produces monosodium glutamate, a flavour enhancer, were arrested in Indonesia and charged with breaking the country's consumer-protection laws.

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Oberto has set out to "rehabilitate" jerky, removing corn syrup, dextrose, the preservative sodium nitrite and flavor-enhancing monosodium glutamate from its products. (The Teriyaki varieties contain soy sauce, which the company says contains naturally-occurring MSG.) A BBQ Pork jerky from Oberto is so popular around the office that Mr. Ennis says even he has trouble getting it at times.

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