If the dish contains lots of raw vegetables, pair it with a light, fresh wine, such as an Old World Sauvignon Blanc, a white Burgundy or a Chablis.

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He has a gift for bubbles, too, like this lively, rich, berry-inflected wine with New World ripeness and Old World grace.

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Restaurants in Sarajevo are increasingly promoting home-grown wine as a quality option to the Old World classics, and Hatibovic told me that his guests are asking him to include visits to vineyards in their customised tours of Bosnia and Herzegovina.

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Then, owing to winemaking traditions, wines from the Old World tend to be more earth and spice driven, whereas a New World wine would be more fruit-forward.

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