An orange tree frog hops ahead of us as we emerge from the rocks back into the forest.

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At one point, the perfumer Bertrand Duchaufour gives Ms. Beaulieu a test fragrance that conjures the orange tree but not the two people entangled underneath it.

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In 1940, Hutton arrived in Hollywood, then a relatively small orange-tree-scented town, and signed a contract with Paramount the following year.

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For a quieter stay, book into options like Bayrams (five minutes from the beach, families with children welcome, cushioned little gazeboes perfect to chill out during the day and night), recently built Turkmen tree houses with hammocks in the garden, also close to the beach or Orange Pension - another tree hostel in the middle of the orange grove.

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