Except for wild game, wild mushrooms, wild berries and fish and shellfish, virtually all the food in European and American diets has long been derived from genetically modified organisms yes, even the organic stuff at Whole Foods and the local farmers market.

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Relay focuses on the organic and natural like Whole Foods does, but with the farmers market tacked on the side.

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For a Berkeley-born favourite, make the trip to the historic Ferry Plaza Farmers Market on the edge of San Francisco Bay, where artisanal food vendors, organic farm stands, legendary coffee shops and a host of restaurants buzz with chatter, tasting, slurping, clanging and eating.

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Whole Foods stacks its offerings, organic and otherwise, as high as gravity and physics will allow, suggesting an abundance so rich that a farmers' market must have just parked at the store for the day.

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