Some species have collapsed, like Atlantic cod, Atlantic bluefin tuna and Pacific salmon in California, Oregon and Washington.
He was already at odds with the federal government, notably over what he sees as its feeble response to American overfishing of Pacific salmon.
The 11-minute ride is well worth it for the snow-capped mountain views (from both the lift and the restaurant) and the comfort food brunch- and lunch-only menu, which includes a wild Pacific salmon sampler, prepared tartare, smoked and candied, and eggs Benedict on toasted brioche topped with avocado hollandaise.
The AquAdvantage salmon, reared from the eggs of wild Atlantic salmon, sports some extra genes from the Pacific Chinook salmon and an eel, the ocean pout.
At both her restaurants, Ms. Louis cooks exclusively with fresh wild salmon from the Pacific Northwest.
WSJ: Jenn Louis's Rock-Salt-Roasted Salmon and Turnips | Slow Food Fast
Long before European settlers came ashore, Indian tribes throughout the country were roasting fish on aromatic planks of wood salmon in the Pacific Northwest, shad on the East Coast, whitefish in the Central Plains.
For extra Pacific Northwest flavor, ask to sub in smoked salmon for the ham.
On at least two occasions last summer, the Bonneville Power Administration - the federal agency responsible for marketing power from dams in the Pacific Northwest - used water meant to aid migrating juvenile salmon to supply California with hydroelctricity.
Planked salmon has been a regular menu item in the Pacific Northwest for years, and its popularity has now spread to the lower states.
In the Pacific Northwest, Pinot Gris is renowned as the dream match for the oily richness of salmon.
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