Some species have collapsed, like Atlantic cod, Atlantic bluefin tuna and Pacific salmon in California, Oregon and Washington.

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He was already at odds with the federal government, notably over what he sees as its feeble response to American overfishing of Pacific salmon.

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The 11-minute ride is well worth it for the snow-capped mountain views (from both the lift and the restaurant) and the comfort food brunch- and lunch-only menu, which includes a wild Pacific salmon sampler, prepared tartare, smoked and candied, and eggs Benedict on toasted brioche topped with avocado hollandaise.

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The AquAdvantage salmon, reared from the eggs of wild Atlantic salmon, sports some extra genes from the Pacific Chinook salmon and an eel, the ocean pout.

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At both her restaurants, Ms. Louis cooks exclusively with fresh wild salmon from the Pacific Northwest.

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For extra Pacific Northwest flavor, ask to sub in smoked salmon for the ham.

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On at least two occasions last summer, the Bonneville Power Administration - the federal agency responsible for marketing power from dams in the Pacific Northwest - used water meant to aid migrating juvenile salmon to supply California with hydroelctricity.

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Planked salmon has been a regular menu item in the Pacific Northwest for years, and its popularity has now spread to the lower states.

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In the Pacific Northwest, Pinot Gris is renowned as the dream match for the oily richness of salmon.

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