At the Abastos market, she led me through an area the size of a football field that held nothing but bread including pan de yema (egg-yolk bread), a family favorite, which Abigail, slipping out of her Spanish, refers to as challah.

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Try a sugar-spun coffin, or the eggy, yeasty pan de muerto (bread of the dead).

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Two important additions are a container of water, because the spirits arrive thirsty after their journey, and pan de muertos (bread of the dead).

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Bakers would serve hot loaves of pan dulce (a sweet bread dotted with candied fruit) rumoured to be the best in the city, and famed cultural figures like tango stars idled away hours at the tables.

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