Then, about 200 men walk the route wearing half- to full-metre-tall paper bishop hats, lit from within by candles and cut with intricate, stained glass window-like designs featuring Saint Nicholas.

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Hanging off lampposts and standing atop telephone booths, people were brandishing everything from white paper gloves to black hats and face masks.

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Nowadays, many look at it as a bunch of partiers in silly shirts and straw hats wearing gaudy paper flower leis and drinking overly sweet, superfluity rum drinks while trying not to burn down the backyard with torch fuel being spilled on the grill.

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As I don't wear hats, I lined a shoe box with parchment paper, poured in the batter, and put everything in the oven.

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