Then it's a visit to Brooklyn for Brian Leth's recent addition to Vinegar Hill House's list of specials, a pappardelle with the garden-variety snails plus watercress, pears and hazelnuts.
Indeed, during a visit earlier this summer, business was brisk at a Ravella hotel bar which has Tuscan-inspired views of manicured hedges surrounding a fire pit, with customers sipping martinis and noshing on pappardelle with veal meatballs.