Near Christmas, volunteers put on a dazzling display of lights and, on the day before Christmas Eve, The Ship Inn cooks up a traditional dish of stargazy pie in honour of local lad Tom Bawcock, who supposedly ended a village famine by braving storms to land a bounty of fish.

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The best dish of all was a large duck bistayeea, a delicious pastry-covered pie with layers of duck and Moroccan spices, which was partially inspired by a dish Ms. Gyngell served using pigeons.

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Spread the rice mixture into the dish, gather the overhanging phyllo and fold it over the filling to form a boureki, or large pie.

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