Around 4m people can play the game, chess clubs have sprouted, and in 1997 Britain even beat the Russians, traditionally the world's strongest players, to win the European team championships.
The square is also home to the Rath Museum (a fine arts gallery), and near to Bastions Park, where you can take a walk between competition recitals, indulge in a hot chocolate, or even play a game of lifesize chess.