Just 13 years ago, though, there was more talk of bankruptcy than building in Port Lincoln.

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Port Lincoln's mayor, Peter Davis, brags that it's the seafood capital of Australia.

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The quest has set Stehr apart from the Port Lincoln pooh-bahs--they're concerned that if he succeeds, he risks flooding the tuna market.

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The enterprising fishermen working the chilly waters off Port Lincoln have figured out a way to rear lots of tuna in captivity.

FORBES: The Future Is Fish

Indeed, tiny Port Lincoln is at one end of a 5, 000-mile-long supply chain that ends in some of the finest restaurants in Tokyo.

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Teams of Japanese inspectors fly into Port Lincoln to examine each harvest before it's flown off to Narita and trucked to the giant predawn Tsukiji Fish Market.

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Port Lincoln, on the remote southern coast of Australia, is so isolated that it takes most of a day to drive there from the closest major city, Adelaide.

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Tuna season runs from December through February, when the waters of the rough Great Australian Bight are at their calmest and Port Lincoln's fleet of 50 boats puts out to sea.

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The quotas were issued for free when the system started--on the basis of a company's previous catches and its time in the industry--and now form the foundation of Port Lincoln's vast wealth.

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Raised in a strict Prussian family, he went to sea at age 14 and spent time in the French Foreign Legion in Africa before arriving in Port Lincoln in 1961 aboard a Swedish merchant ship.

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Isolation was once Port Lincoln's biggest disadvantage.

FORBES: The Future Is Fish