Hafida's all-time masterpiece, however, is a hearty, chermoula-laden fish, vegetable and potato dish constituting almost an entire souk on a plate.

WSJ: Magic-Carpet-Ride Chermoula

The estofado course also included a sort of dressed-up mashed-potato dish and a pork dish and a beef enchilada with mole negro that was indeed the superior mole negro that Abigail had been instructed to find.

NEWYORKER: Land of the Seven Moles

But some people dispute whether the dish of meat, potato, onion and turnip in a pastry casing originates from Cornwall or neighbouring Devon.

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As wrong as it seems to devour an entire bowl of thrice-fried spiced fries mere steps from the Irish potato-famine memorial, the success of this simple dish is a reminder that North End Grill is all about the classics, executed with flair.

NEWYORKER: North End Grill

Its signature dish in the country is the McAloo Tikki burger, which uses a spiced potato-based filling.

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For a main dish, the duck curry is a wonderful collision of succulent duck leg, crispy fried pork, sweet potato, green beans and pineapple.

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