At this session, however, the focus was on the 2, 500 acres planted in Riesling.
If you remain unmoved by the case for German Riesling, that's fine with Mr. Theise.
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The Riesling grapes typically used for ice wine are hand-picked at about 3 a.m.
It's very collegial, " she said, choosing a glass of the Mercer Riesling, an "Aromatic White.
" It satisfies a Riesling lover, he says, "because it's so soil-sensitive and animated on the palate.
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The people who drink Riesling are the people who go to indie movies instead of Hollywood blockbusters.
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Mr. Spingarn told me that his top-selling German wine today isn't a Riesling at all, but a Pinot Noir.
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In fact, diversity is the key word in German winemaking today, and not just as it applies to Riesling.
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Most people run from varietals such as Riesling because of its sweet reputation.
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The main varietals include Riesling, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, Gewurztraminer and Pinot Noir.
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One final white wine that I will resolve to support is German Riesling.
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Riesling is later to the party there, and has only been grown in many vineyards for the last five years.
In fact, if it weren't for this country's sommeliers, I don't think anyone would be drinking German Riesling at all.
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Even so, Ntezo has to introduce wine to drinkers who may know little or nothing about Bordeaux, Riesling or Pinot Noir.
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What could be better to replace the usual accompanying tipple of murky wheat beer than a glass of tart, delicious Riesling?
Owen and Sullivan produce 4, 000 cases per year, mostly Bordeaux-style blends, although they do have a highly rated Riesling to their credit.
In the North Island, at estates such as Dry River, the winemaking team, under the auspices of Neil McCallum, create scintillating, tense Riesling.
Good Riesling, of which there are many in Germany, is replete with notes of crisp green apple, lime, nectarine, ripe pear and spice.
Among them, Greenwood Ridge wins awards for its merlot and Riesling, and has a handsome octagonal tasting room built from a single redwood.
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Ms. Goldberger, the sommelier at Fifth Floor restaurant, in San Francisco, told me she has resolved to drink "more Riesling and less Riesling" in 2013.
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Curiously though, the white wine he brought for our meal is very ripe and voluptuous, by no means dry, a 2006 Hirtzberger Riesling Smaragd Singerriedel.
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Because Vietnamese food is generally light, with most dressings and sauces based on palm sugar and lime, Dickson often recommends a dry Riesling to accompany the delicate flavours.
And yes, German Riesling requires not just a promise of tasting but of full emotional commitment just ask the sommeliers who are drinking (and selling) the stuff.
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In Germany, the village of Bernkastel makes an ideal base for exploring the steep slopes along the Mosel river, home to some of the world's greatest Riesling.
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And yet, most of us cannot afford to purchase a wine stem for every grape varietal (currently Riedel offers wine glasses for everything from Chardonnay and Pinot Noir to Riesling and Cabernet Sauvignon).
"For most vegetable dishes that are not heavily laden with spices, you want wine that is not challenging, " says Sriram Aylur, chef and proprietor at London's Michelin-starred Indian restaurant Quilon, pointing to German Riesling.
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John Kapon, president of Acker Merrall, which holds both live and Internet auctions, cited many of the same wines, though he added old Rioja and Riesling to his list, especially the world-class Trimbach Clos Ste.
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Somewhere in the middle is the Dr. Karl Christoffel Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spatlese, which has a touch of sweetness and lower alcohol, so it works equally well as an aperitif, with dinner and with dessert.
"Chenin is France's answer to German Riesling, " said Daniel Johnnes, the wine director of Daniel Boulud's restaurant group, at a recent gathering of New York sommeliers in my living room as we prepared to taste some 25 Chenins.
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