The last was a soft, lush and ripe wine made even more memorable by its packaging (a gray ceramic bottle that one friend said "looked like a bomb that you'd light with a fuse and throw" making perhaps the first unoaked Chardonnay Molotov cocktail).

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My late grandfather, who made ripe peaches into wine, loved his favorite fruit grilled.

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The Alain Geoffroy tasted flabby and even a bit watery, while the grand cru wine had ripe peach, pear and apricot aromas, was smooth and flavorful on the palate, and had a juicy finish.

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Curiously though, the white wine he brought for our meal is very ripe and voluptuous, by no means dry, a 2006 Hirtzberger Riesling Smaragd Singerriedel.

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"We wait for the grapes to become ripe, not when it's convenient to serve the wine, " O'Brien said.

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This lush wine is made only in the best years from very ripe Syrah.

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Even from a sunny, ripe vintage like 1998, what strikes you about this all-chardonnay wine is its pinpoint elegance, a refined texture and closely woven harmony that comes in part from its nine to 10 years of cellar age before it hits the market.

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From one winery to the next along the back-country road that runs through Mendoza, the premier wine-growing region there, Bieler found full-bodied, ripe reds everywhere he looked.

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