The bacteria involved in making kimchee are not the same as those used to make Roquefort.

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The costermongers are long gone, but the cheesemongers have dug in with their Reblochon and their Roquefort.

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"I adore it for me, the top two blue cheeses in the world are Roquefort and Stilton, " he says.

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Products that have been subject to an export "blacklist" have included chocolate, pork, Roquefort cheese, mustard, onions and truffles.

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They argue that, while their wines are sweet, they can also be drunk with a variety of dishes, from Roquefort salad to Cantonese roast pork.

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Just as you Americans should be concerned at the way that Washington makes Roquefort more expensive for you: but why would you care that the EU makes Wisconsin cheese more expensive for me?

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But if it was meant as a simile, it could also be taken literally -- because in a number of these caves, the local speciality, Cabrales cheese (a blue cheese similar to Roquefort) is quietly ageing in the gloom.

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