The smell of tanned saddle leather pervades the store, a warren of almost claustrophobically well-stocked small rooms.

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It is the most beautiful car ever, a robin's-egg blue Mercedes-Benz 190 SL a two-seater convertible with saddle leather interior.

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The saddle leather-decked rear can be converted to an instant upscale tailgate party, complete with Champagne cooler, a pull-out awning and umbrellas in concealed side compartments.

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The focus is on the biggest models with the fanciest fittings, from saddle-leather seats to computers that spot a tornado or hailstorm five miles away.

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Standing near one of the mounted warriors, for example, we take in gold-trimmed expanses of small lacquered squares that cover the horse's flank, the grain of a decorated leather saddle pad, the sheen of a black metal mask, the ribbing of the helmet, the softness of the underarmor shirt, and the vibrant orange-and-gold striation of the samurai's cuirass and skirt.

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We are staring at a wall of handsome, hand-tooled saddles: English, Western, and, for the die-hards, a version of a buttero saddle in rich, leather-trimmed suede, filled with jute, horsehair, and hay over a heavy wooden yoke.

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There were two ordinary vaquero's or herdsman's saddles, like American stock saddles, one very ornate vaquero's saddle, with hand-tooled leather and heavy, hooded stirrups, and two military saddles in black leather.

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Saddlers declared by their peers to be using sheep's leather, deemed to be an inferior way to finish a saddle, were slapped with hefty fines.

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There is an array of Western memorabilia on offer, from a Keyston Brothers saddle ensemble to eight different pairs of antique spurs to an extensive collection of Native American beadwork, leather crafts, rugs and pottery.

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