It was 1963, and a scandal involving fake inventories of salad oil at a small subsidiary of American Express drove down the price of Amex shares.

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Dress the salad simply with olive oil and some salt before serving.

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Dinner selections include Brittany lobster with truffle oil and crunchy vegetable salad, and braised veal cheek with morels and asparagus.

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Ditto the little plates at Mediterranean restaurants (a caprese salad consisting of mozzarella, tomatoes, and basil drizzled with olive oil can be 400 calories) and the small plates at Korean restaurants (fried spring rolls and coconut shrimp).

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Oil and water may be hard to mix, but blending inputs creates a good salad dressing.

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And Neil Perry's Rockpool is a perennial favorite for tasting menus that rival Tetsuya's in the creative use of local ingredients such as a salad of green lip abalone, mussel, clam, tea-smoked oysters and noodles with truffle oil and mushroom soy dressing.

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That evening, he cooked up a big pan of what he preferred to call porcini, with olive oil, pepper, salt, and pancetta, and we ate them with grilled polenta, salad, and red wine, a Barolo.

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