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This year the stakes are especially high, with a record 18m sockeye salmon expected to return to Canada's Fraser River.
ECONOMIST: Canada
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In the dining salon a four-person culinary team turns out such dishes as braised wild sockeye salmon with papaya salsa relish.
FORBES: Magazine Article
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Throughout summer wild sockeye salmon, chanterelle mushrooms and salmonberries appear on menus.
BBC: Vancouver: Land of the lotus-eaters
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They have seasonal access to wild-caught (better than farmed) King salmon (larger and more desirable than sockeye) from the Columbia River (one of the greatest salmon locales), and the piece I had, cooked on an alder wood plank, was THE best salmon I have ever tasted.
FORBES: 10 Most Memorable Restaurant Meals Of 2011
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Though poor ocean conditions have been blamed for a nosedive in chinook salmon in Alaska this year, sockeye have done well, not only in the Columbia, but in Canadian and Alaskan rivers as well.
MSN: Record numbers of sockeye salmon return to Northwest - US news - Environment | NBC News
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But unlike most salmon, which eat other fish, sockeye eat plankton, tiny shrimplike animals.
MSN: Record numbers of sockeye salmon return to Northwest - US news - Environment | NBC News
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They also offer fresh sockeye from Alaska and the rare Ivory King or white salmon, accounting for less than one percent of the variety.
FORBES: 10 Most Memorable Restaurant Meals Of 2011