Follow the pungent perfume of frankincense, sumac, cinnamon and sacks full of enticing spices across the street to the tiny yet aromatic Spice Souq.

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Mr. NASCIMENTO: Yes, like, Billie Holiday, Ella Fitzgerald and Yma Sumac.

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The Souq is renowned for its selection of spices from the region and South Asia (sumac, saffron, preserved lemons), and for selling colourfully wrapped chocolate and sweets by the kilo.

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Choose from raspberry jam and Devonshire clotted cream, or go local with date and zaatar (a Middle Eastern spice mixture of sumac, hyssop and sesame) scones, rosewater-scented grapes and Arabic pastries.

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And in case you're still wondering what za'atar is, the Middle Eastern spice is a blend of sumac, sesame and herbs that every line cook should now learn to make, according to the magazine.

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Do you know Yma Sumac?

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