In February of this year, Gyngell resigned and asked that the star be removed from the restaurant's website, claiming it had been a curse the place had become packed with Michelin-fueled bookings that brought complaints from guests disappointed by the informal atmosphere and lack of linen table cloths.

WSJ: Constant Gardeners

This is because in the French tradition, they would drape hugely expensive white linen damask over a simple walnut table and place a silver mirror on top.

WSJ: The Un-Vain Vanity Table

The best linen, crystal and china was on the table.

NPR: Kate Nolan, WWII Combat Nurse

Linen tablecloths hid the wood-burning braziers set under each table to ward off the chill.

WSJ: Staying at Adr��re Amellal in Siwa, Egypt