On day three, after about 60km of riding, we crossed the 3, 900m-high Tosor Pass, where a sheer cliff of ice and snow gave way to a narrow corridor with the shimmering Kerege-Tash Valley below.
It's worth noting that Barnes, his predecessor Eugene Patterson and his successor Paul Tash have all been career journalists and former Times editors committed to maintaining the quality, independence and local ownership of the newspaper.