TERROIR, VARIETALS and vintages: three fancy words most commonly associated with grapes and wine.
Rather than philosophising about terroir, they have specialised in blending wines from different regions.
Surely one of Mr Paul's wineries could not be suggesting that terroir was important?
Wine makers down under are already trying to emphasise the terroir of regions like Coonawarra and Barossa.
"Winemakers feel the same way about their relationship to terroir and the notion of what wine is, " he continues.
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Terroir's gleeful myopia is sure to spark debate into the wee hours.
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The difference is a matter of winemaking talent, location and vine age, and all the mysterious components that make up terroir.
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The principle is similar to that of terroir, where the soil and climate in a particular area impart distinctive qualities into wine.
It combines a classic Bordeaux style with the distinct South African terroir.
But given the store that French wine-makers set by terroir, the country's courts may well decide that only Cuba can make Cuban rum.
One house whose style of wines reflects the terroir is Bollinger, which makes champagne of a mouth-filling, yeasty, firm character with tremendous depth.
It is for example often assumed in Europe that the finest wines must come from a particularly favoured patch of ground or terroir.
In TriBeCa, Terroir (24 Harrison St, near Greenwich Street, www.wineisterroir.com) is the sister of a much-loved hole-in-wall wine bar of the same name in the East Village.
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Maggie Harrison found the Oregon terroir, specifically the rocks, so compelling she made a split-second decision to move her family north and make wine there.
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Terroir and the estates' market position are also taken into account.
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And like wine, their flavor reflects their own marine terroir.
Grieco, founding general manager of Hearth restaurant in the East Village and the Terroir wine-bar franchise, is what the management theorists would call a disruptive force.
For while terroir may be a debatable concept when it comes to the production of wine, there is no disputing its power as a marketing tool.
Thanks to its position between sea and mountains, Catalonia is marked by dozens of microclimates, each producing ingredients and plates that are tied indelibly to their terroir.
While an Atlantic bay or a mountain valley may make attractively bucolic settings for a fresh foodstuff, the notion of a terroir, as in wine-growing, is misleading.
Brewers have lately been courting the class (and cash) of the wine world with bigger bottles, heftier price tags, claims of terroir, even or, at least profound, boastful flavors.
One of the leaders of the movement is Yannick Alleno, a three-star Michelin chef that runs Terroir Parisien, a restaurant devoted to using local ingredients and reviving French classics.
Produced on the island for centuries from sun-dried Zibbibo grapes, the lush dessert wine sings of terroir: of peaches, figs, honey and the Pantescan sea, soil and sun.
It also illustrated the concept of terroir.
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In a (French) word, terroir: the concept that wine reflects the weather, soil, geology and topography of the land on which the grapes are grown, and that the most unique and exceptional wines come from a single exceptional vineyard.
Now, Dr Charters has set about trying to help growers in the Champagne region decide the future of their industry, notably the trend towards smaller, more distinctive brands that reflect a particular "terroir" -- the combination of climate and soil composition that gives a wine its character.
It is hard to believe in retrospect what happened 40 years ago, when an unprecedented 18 new wineries opened, primarily in Napa, though some of these pioneers found similarly excellent terroir in the parts of Sonoma and Mendocino immediately bordering Napa, before these regions had yet to come into their own.
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While the original family-run roasters still prosper, and most of Australia remains content with a simple latte or short black (perfectly made, of course), the cities are now in the grip of coffee's third wave: single origin beans, premium small batch roasts, terroir and alternative brewing methods such as the Clover syphon, filter and cold drip.
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