Mr. Brock said the earthiness of buckwheat counters the sweetness of the South Carolina peaches.

WSJ: Buck-Wild for Buckwheat

Lillian takes a deep breath to calm herself, and she smells her mother beside her, perspiration and green onion and the singed, nutty scent of buckwheat groats tossed from one side of the skillet to the other in a perfect, nonchalant brown arc.

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The savory crepes she sells are known as galettes, made with a buckwheat batter traditional to the Brittany region of France, and finished with creative fillings.

WSJ: Sweet and Savory Comfort��in a Crepe

The particular properties of the volcanic soil are ideal for growing purple potatoes, black truffles, buckwheat, white corn and tomatoes, and Nogue insists the ingredients have a distinct flavour profile compared to the same vegetables and grains grown elsewhere, a characteristic he attributes to the soil's perfect balance of absorption and porosity, as well as its mineral properties.

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Beside the barren Zeya he heard of the Shilka, where peas, barley and buckwheat grew.

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After mingling with the cultured crowd, fuel up with a galette (buckwheat pancake) at Le Galichon.

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The sharp design lines and bespoke furniture are mirrored in the equally stylish and creative cooking of French head chef Benjamin Launay, with dishes such as steamed trout paired with buckwheat and boletus mushrooms or ravioli filled with beef on a bed of creamed leeks.

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