It was here that my mother learned the simple culinary art of making the beans and cornbread meal from her grandmother Charity, who ran a small boardinghouse that welcomed miners hoping to find work inside the damp hollows of the nearby mountains.

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The handcrafted culinary art (and its chocolaty aroma) is a teaser for the high tea menu in the Entyse Lounge.

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An even more egregious omission, given that this book attempts to look at how cuisine defines French culture as a whole, is visual art: there is no mention of the sumptuous culinary still-lifes by Chardin, the countless Impressionist picnics, brioches by Bonnard or mealtimes by Matisse, images that have literally transformed food into art in a specifically French way.

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But droves of cosmopolitan types have made their way back namely to the Roma and Condesa neighborhoods renovating the grand but neglected French-style mansions and Art Deco buildings, and spawning flourishing art, culinary and design scenes.

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