She said the village was deserted, and noted army combat vehicle tracks on the village dirt road.

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The convoy then rolled into a deserted part of the village.

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It is a well-known secret among the locals that January's Sundance Film Festival is the best time to hit the slopes - all of Hollywood is down in the village schmoozing and the trails are deserted.

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Heading east from Dili to the village of Becora, the highway is deserted except our little convoy--a military truck bearing two tons of rice, and two cars carrying military officers and journalists.

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Occasional wineries punctuate the final stretch before the postcard-worthy village, with its river-meets-mountain vistas and deserted streets flanked with countrified guesthouses.

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